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the ancient riot | Surf Culture and Travel


I’d like to post some thing about a weird board that I surfed every week, but for now it will just be called:
Today’s crazy craft.
This is the Booger Monster, A.K.A the speed square. It’s just over 4 foot short and I’d say about 22 inches wide. Super flat and has 2 fiberglass keel fins from fcs in it.
I got to try this beast out in the perfect conditions yesterday. There was a clean knee high left had bank on the beach of Estegnote early in the morning so I took her for a spin. It’s hands down the most fun I’ve had in such crappy conditions ever. If you manage not to pearl on the take of it is just about impossible not to get the wave to the beach. The incredibly wide tail and flat rocker just makes the board fly forward and the size and shape of the board allows for the most insane cheater 5 head dips and 360 carves.
If ever you get the chance, go out and try it for yourself, it’s epic!!!

Remi Petersen in France by Jan Bijl

Read these 5 tips from Remi Petersen on how to surf an alaia surfboard

Have you ever wanted to learn how to surf an alaia - the hawaiian wooden surfboard that goes back thousands of years? You won’t regret it if you do!

Here are 5 tips from Remi Petersen to help you transition from surfing the contemporary shortboard to the ultra-fun, ancient yet fresh, alaia surfboard.

  1. Make sure you have the right alaia. If you are starting, get one which is about 4-6 inches bigger then yourself and half an inch wider then your average short board. This will help with paddling the alaia which is very different from a paddling a shortboard.
  2. Riding an alaia front-side is a lot easier and more fun to start off. You want a wave which starts of slow and runs down the line with out to many sections. This will enable you to get a feeling for how the alaia surfs differently.
  3. Don’t force anything. From the take off till the end of your ride, all you want to do is guide the board.
  4. Keep a low center of gravity. The weight should be changing from your back to your front foot. When the tail starts sliding, shift it to the front; and when you are taking a late drop or about to pearl, lean back as far as possible.
  5. Use the waves wall to grab onto to help you stay in control of the board and allow you to turn with out sliding out.

Remi Petersen's Alaia surfing video

(Source: theancientriot)


@remi_petersen on fire with #globe #bantam at #hangardarwin , #bordeaux . @GlobeEurope . (Taken with Instagram)


Ying Yang #bowl rode by @remi_petersen , #fun #skate #session with #darwin #crew! #bordeaux , #france . (Taken with Instagram)

Remi Petersen ripping it up at his home-break J-Bay.

Click here —> and like his Facebook Page.

Pic by Winston Kletter

(Source: theancientriot)

Support our man Remi Petersen on the WQS Surfing tour.

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Remi Petersen busting out at the Rhythm Retro comp in France. Pic by Tom Greenhill.

(via beachbumswagg)

Alaia surfing being taken to the next level  in J-Bay with Remi Petersen


North Sea small wave surfing… Remi Petersen

Sick Photo by Paul van Jaarsveld of Remi Petersen surfing the Billabong Pro J-Bay 2012.

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