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the ancient riot | Surf Culture and Travel

Bali Diaries: I might just be done here….

After 2 months of the inconsistent and crowded surf, Remi Petersen gets over the vibe in Bali and starts thinking about heading back to the South African and European contest scene:

Kuta Beach Sunset

Like I just stated, I think I might just be done with this place… Its been giving me some pretty bad vibes the last couple of days and I haven’t been enjoying myself as much as usual… We have had some fun surfs which include me getting lucky enough to ride one of Tom Wegeners award winning tuna models from the editor of surfing magazine (not that there came more then 2 waves every hour through but it was still good to try). I also surfed a semi square surfboard (4’11) with 2 big side fins from one of the guys at Deus called Dave. An other surfboard shaper who we met and goes by the name Keoni John Kelly, a super throther from Hawaii who now lives in Indo. He let me use his board one day when we had some bigger waves. It was a little 5’6 x 20 x 2.3/8 with 4 fins. It was super loose and fast thew the turns and even let me land a solid air reverse (something i wasn’t expecting to do on that board). However I did need a nice smooth face to feel it working… I also got to try my friend, Sally Garret, board which her father, Chris, shaped her. It’s a 5’8 with a thumb tail and a quad fin set up… The day I tried this one it was very small and weak, but this board was super fast and loose allowing me to still have lots of fun…

Another fun experience I had was surfing honest 6 foot impossibles with just our friend, Carlos from Spain, my dad and I out. My inside fin on my surfboard broke off on the first take off, but with the waves cranking and me not having an other board I decided to surf it just like that and ended up having super fun. It was like riding an Alaia on the bottom turn and then just doing a normal short board turn when you got to the top of the wave… Very interesting indeed. I am currently riding an other original Tom Wegener Alaia which Jake from the Drifter Surf Shop was friendly enough to hand over to me for my last couple of days that i’m here. It’s a almost brand new 6’6 straight square tailed one with a single concave all the way to the noes. A lot more narrow then what I’m used to but after 2 or 3 waves I got the hang of it and was shocked to feel how much better it held in when the waves got bigger then a wider board would have.

Alaia Surfboard Remi Petersen

Hopefully I can add some more pics to this post soonish.

It’s getting to the end of the trip here and I.m on my way to Durban for just about a week for the PRO JUNIOR there. After that I will be flying to Holland for a couple of day before heading up to France for some weeks competing in a QS and some other contests like the Protest NK Surf Tour. This will be the last post I do for a while cause I wont have any secure internet connection but will be updating my Facebook page if ya wanna follow my movements…. click here :) 

(Source: theancientriot, via remipetersen)