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the ancient riot | Surf Culture and Travel

surfsouthafrica:

J-BAY OPEN - Men’s World Championship Tour #6

It’s going to be a banger of an event. Supertubes is one of, if not, the best high-performance right hand point-breaks. And the best surfers are about to fight it out to see who is the best.

surfsouthafrica:

Jeffreys Bay. South Africa’s best surf spot. Home to the ASP World Tour J-Bay Open. Sitting on the boardwalk and watching perfect wave after perfect wave come through is one of the best experiences ever… except for surfing them. Get out there and surf!

remipetersen:

Here is what I was able to scrape together from the little footage we were able to get whilst in Indo and put it together last night. Enjoy it!

surfsouthafrica:

Matthew Bromley. What time is it? Photo: Ant Fox

(Source: zigzag.co.za)

surfsouthafrica:

Surfing legend Andy Irons deep in a barrel at Teahupoo.

(Source: billabong.com)

surfsouthafrica:

Surfing teaches patience. On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.” - Shaun Tomson

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

"Always to allow yourself the freedom to fail in whatever you try to excel at, thereby opening the door to the learning process of life and closing the door on one’s ego.” - Gerry Lopez

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

“I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea” - Captain James Cooke

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

Life is an adventure, and when we see it as such it becomes more fun and enjoyable and less of a burden and toil.” - Gerry Lopez

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

“You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.” - Jon Kabat-Zinn

Todos Santos. Photo: Jeff Divine

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

"Surfing is the star around which my life revolves. For me, all roads lead to the surf; I feel most comfortable near or on the coast. I think surfing has given me a better appreciation for all things. I most definitely respect the environment, particularly the ocean and foreshore, and I think it smoothed out some of the rough patches in my character.” - Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew

Rabbit at Off The Wall, Hawaii, 1974. Photo: Jeff Divine

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

Surfing also teaches quality. I will wager that it is not the number of waves that makes a session memorable for any given surfer, but that one beautiful wave that he or she waited for … and rode all the way the way to shore.” - Shaun Tomson

Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii. Photo: Jeff Divine

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other - stoke. One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to someone who has never heard the expression.” - Shaun Tomson

Bill Lacy, Bacdoor Pipeline, Hawaii. Photo: Jeff Divine

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

There is no better feeling than getting another person stoked on surfing. Truly, it does not bum me out that there are more surfers in the water these days. It just means that I have to get up earlier in the morning.” - Shaun Tomson

California, circa 1970. Photo: Jeff Divine

(Source: jeffdivinesurf.com)

surfsouthafrica:

“Surfing is all about uncertainty. That feeling of taking a risk, that leap of faith every time I jump into the ocean, that paddle out among things unseen - all of these make surfing very special.” - Shaun Tomson

Solana Beach. Photo: Aaron Chang

(Source: aaronchang.com)